The intricate soundscapes of Buenos Aires are nearly impossible to ignore. Take a walk down the street, or merely crack open a window at any given time or day, and you’ll be sure to hear the city’s song: a unique blend of birds chirping, cars honking, followed by the occasional profanity or echoes of a rowdy celebration in the distance.
For the less observant, it’s not uncommon to come across the more literal form of music as well. Your cab driver cranks up his favorite Beatles’ classic on your way to a local bar, where you’re fortunate enough to witness a couple brave gringas belt out their versions of Shakira. Music has become a binding bridge here in Argentina, as it has throughout the rest of the world. I came face-to-face with this notion shortly after my arrival in Buenos Aires—turns out, scoring concert tickets to the Stones’ may prove virtually impossible in both hemispheres. While this realization begged itself more bitterly than sweet, my recent trip to one of Voluntario Global’s kindergartens in Barracas quickly restored my faith in the power of music as a universal language.
On the bus ride over, our Parisian volunteer, Elise, shared some of her experience working with the four-year-old students in Barracas: “They ask me why I talk funny,” she said smiling bashfully. Despite the aforementioned language barrier, she’s instantly greeted by a swarm of giddy beaming children, each one fighting for their chance at a hug. I later watch in awe as Elise and the teacher somehow manage to help nearly twenty rowdy students transcend chaos into chorus. The class greets each other with their routine welcome song, “El Mono,” followed by a quick rehearsal for their end-of-year show—ironically enough, singing the Spanish rendition of Frozen’s “Let It Go.” By the looks of it, both Elise and her students allowed the gift of song to supersede whatever premonitions might have stood in the way of integration.
However anecdotal this account of my trip to Barracas may have already seemed, I’ll humbly offer the following advice to any prospective volunteers, whom, at some point, may find themselves disillusioned by the cultural differences in their path, be it language barriers or sold out concerts: before you turn back in defeat, take a walk around the block with open ears, an open mind, and merely listen for your familiar song.
Two months is a long time to get properly acquainted with a new environment. During this time, I have had my share of gelato and helado (ice cream). In Buenos Aires, there is a never-ending supply of the frozen sweet with a gelateria or heladeria (ice cream shop) on almost every street corner! With a rich history dating back to the 18th century with their Italian ancestors, ice cream is a fundamental part of the Argentinean culture.
Some might be wondering, what is the difference between gelato and helado? For starters, there’s a slightly different process in which gelato and helado is made. Gelato is churned at a much slower rate, incorporating less air and leaving the gelato denser than ice cream. Another important fact to remember is that gelato is served at a slightly warmer temperature than ice cream, giving it silkier and softer texture. But it also has a tendency to melt quicker so eat up!
Just in time for the hot summer season, here’s our top five picks for the best spots to try some authentic Argentinean flavors like Tramontana, Dulce de Leche, chocolate con almendras (almonds) or Malbec y frutos rojos (Malbec and berries) For a more thorough list of flavors check out this website.
1. Rapanui – This is by far the best tasting gelato in Buenos Aires! There are a few different locations but if you are heading to the Recoleta Cemetery, take a 2 min walk to Rapanui. It’s so worth it, especially when you can stock up on Christmas gifts with a purchase of a box of their homemade chocolates!
2. Cadore – For the traditionalists like myself Cadore is the place to go! This vintage gelateria is a family-run business that started in the late 18th century in Venice, Italy. Cadore is a friendly parlor located on Avenida de Corrientes and Rodriguez Pena.
3. Freddo – One of the biggest chain of ice cream parlors in Buenos Aires and provides the daily customer a variety of flavors at a reasonably cheap price.
4. Volta – Another one of the chain ice cream parlors but with a sophisticated edge, they make chocolate and have some of the best chocolate flavors. Again this is one of the more moderate priced heladerias.
5. Persico – One of the chain heladerias that is equally good in quality and price. Definitely worth checking out if you find one as you are walking along the street.
For more tips on the best gelato and helado in Buenos Aires check out Gringo or for more information about general chain ice cream parlors check out this blog. Your welcome and enjoy!!
About one hour and half trip away by Subte and train, we arrive at the Health Clinic in Ramos Mejia. The clinic has long-served this community since 1942. Over time, the clinic established itself as a vital part of the livelihood and sustainability of the neighborhood. It provides a variety of services - pediatrics, gynecology, dentistry, orthopedics, kinesiology, orthopedics, cardiology, clinical medicine, psychiatry and psychology – with doctors who work for very minimal salaries. However, these doctors like Dr. Daniel, th director, are committed and aware of their role at the clinic.
As part of the Responsible Tourism Network, Voluntario Global has supported the clinic by directing volunteers with a profession in the medical field or those that are studying to become a nurse or doctor. Unlike other projects, the volunteers that work with the staff at the clinic get some real ideas of how the medical system works in Argentina. One of our current volunteers from The Netherlands, Liselore, said that you “feel needed and it’s really nice to work here”.
After almost two months, Liselore has had the privilege to shadow Dr. Daniel, who has more than welcomed reciprocated learning. At 21, Liselore is only finishing her third year of nursing school and looks forward to bringing back to the Netherlands some of the pleasantries and genuine kindness of those at the clinic in Buenos Aires.
In 2015, where digital streaming, pirating and binge viewing movies and television shows on hundreds of websites such as, Netflix and Hulu it’s hard to remember that people still enjoy going to the cinema. For some, watching a film surrounded by strangers in a dark room with luxurious, ‘stadium’ seating is worth a ticket price of $15-$20 USD. Everyone has a different perspective and reaction to high stakes in an action film, horribly embarrassing moments of a comedy or when the most anticipated couple kiss in a Nicholas Sparks romance. Well in Argentina, the same trends sustain but in what seems to be a classy and a keen part of their culture.
From the famous architectural masterpieces of Teatro Colon and Teatro Gran Rex, there are many ‘vintage’ cinema houses in Buenos Aires to check out. Rich history and architecturally stunning are some characteristics of cinemas like Cine Locra, Cine 25 de Mayo and Cine Gaumont. The latter, Cine Gaumont is located across the plaza in front of the Congressional building on Avenida de Mayo. Cine Gaumont was built by a Frenchman back in 1912 and nearly 100 years later was threatened to be demolished since the owners did not wish to renew their lease. Thanks to legislature Juan Cabandié and supporters of the National Institute of Cinema and Audiovisual Arts (INCAA), the cinema was protected and remains active serving many locals and tourists alike every day.
After a recommendation from a housemate and student filmmaker, I was lucky to see “Kryptonita,” a well-received Argentinian film at some recent festivals. Despite testing my language skills, it was definitely a must-see and genuine cinematic experience. Read about some other classic cinema houses on the Argentina Independent.
Aside from the traditional cinematic experience, there are always the multiplex. Atlas Cines has a few multiplex cinemas all over the city including Monument Lavalle, in the heart of San Nicholas and a few blocks away from Florida Street. There’s also Cinemark in Puerto Maderno and Village Cines in Reloceta (*insert link). So whatever your mood, whatever barrio (neighborhood) you’re in take a trip to the cinema. Don’t forget to grab some fresh popcorn or peanuts, a drink and enjoy the show! For more recommendation about cinemas and film in Argentina check out the following website.
Over the last two years, Rocio Belen Gonzalez Vasquez, has been a vital part of the team at Voluntario Global. Rocio says that like many things “the team is also a family,” and she has thoroughly enjoyed working with Voluntario Global. She says, “I love getting to know all who are involved with the projects and meeting volunteers from all over the world.”
Dedicated to both her education and career she is reminded of her idol, her mother. Her mother went back to college after she had started a family. She worked during the day, went to school at night, and still had time to be a supportive parent. Remembering cartoon from her childhood, where the main character had a watch that could stop time, she smiles and says, “That would be a great superpower because you never have enough time to do everything!” But with or without superhero powers, Rocio is determined to accomplish her goals and make her mother proud.
Currently, Rocio is studying for a Master’s degree in social policies. She hopes to get a position in the Argentinean government. From a young age, Rocio was inspired to raise awareness about real issues of both the past and present. Although she loves working with NGOs like Voluntario Global, her dream job is to work in the Educacion y Memoria program with the Ministerio de Educacion, training children to become human rights defenders and promoters.
Rocio does want to travel more whether or not she gets a government job. “Traveling is great, you learn so much about yourself,” she says reflecting on her first trip abroad to England. She’ll also continue to play sports and watch Argentinean films when she’s not on-the-clock. She says, “I love to play sports ever since I was a little girl… And I love Argentinean films, I like the stories they tell about real people.” Some of her suggestions include “Andres No Quiere Dormir La Siesta” and “Kamchatka.”
Her advice for the new coordinator Milena is to enjoy it, “It’s a cool job and the team you work with is amazing.” For the new volunteers she says, “It can be tough at first living somewhere new, but take advantage of opportunities. Let go of the fear!” Carpe diem Rocio!
Last Thursday, Voluntario Global gathered with a group of volunteers to reflect upon their time in Buenos Aires, thus far. Muffled sounds of rainfall and cheerful protestors, marching, or rather, dancing down Avenida de Mayo flooded the room as Voluntario Global founder, Valeria, asked the golden question: why do you choose to volunteer?
The mate made its way around the table while each volunteer shared her own unique experiences. Though the conversation may have surfaced through a varied mix of language, our thoughts remained universal. Despite the diversity among us, of both culture and passion, one particular answer, in some form or another, rang true for all. Why do we volunteer? Aside from the obvious gratification one finds through helping others, volunteer work may very well serve as the ultimate vehicle in providing, a sort of, ‘inside scoop’ on places where we might typically be considered outsiders— average tourists holding cameras, stuck behind a glaring lens.
As volunteers, we crave much more than a pretty photograph; we seek the true story behind it, as well as the chance to, if even for a moment, become part of that story. While the city of Buenos Aires certainly has no shortage in scenery, the most beautiful landmarks become meaningless without a stock of colorful people to surround it. Volunteering, whether at a kindergarten or a medical clinic, helps each of us gain an educated and enriched perspective on a culture outside of our own. And though some of us may already be moving on to new adventures, our time in Buenos Aires will always serve to remind us of the positive change that occurs, both in a community and within ourselves, when cultural barriers are broken.
International Volunteer Day (IVD) was established by the United Nations with the aim of promoting volunteer-involving organizations around the world.
After what seems to be a long period of depressing wet and damp weather, Buenos Aires will once again transform as verano or summer begins later this month! In preparation for all the fun in the sun, we’ve collected a list of 10 activities you need to check out.
1. Buenos Aires Playas: The cultural department of the government hosts these ‘urban beaches’ all over the city. Although there isn’t an updated website, take a look at information about last year’s playas urbanes program here.
2. Concert in the Park: Also through the city government are a variety of local concerts all over Buenos Aires. To see which barrios (neighborhoods) these concerts take place, check out this website.
3. Film Festivals: When the weather during the day is beautiful, so are the evenings. Bring a chair or blanket and watch some films under the stars. For information about film festivals and other events check out Vuenoz Aires.
4. Get a kilo of Ice Cream or Gelato: Nothing says welcome summer like an ice cream cone! Well in Buenos Aires you cannot go wrong when it comes to helado (ice cream) or gelato since there’s a shop on almost every city block. Remember, when ordering many portenos get as much as one kilo at a time so splurge and enjoy! For recommendations on the ‘best’ heladerias and gelaterias visit Gringo in Buenos Aires.
5. Carnival in Buenos Aires: The famous Brazilian tradition carries on in many places across the world including Buenos Aires. This February check out some of the events to celebrate.
6. Take a Bike Ride or Long Walk at the Reserve: Most people prefer to be outside when there’s nice weather so go visit the Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur next to Puerto Mandero. This expansive area has plenty of plants, wildlife, and tranquility making you feel like your no longer in the city. We suggest renting a bike or taking a long walk around. More information can be found here.
7. Have a picnic: It’s simple, easy to do and a great shared experience. Pick a park in the city, go to the nearest market or delicatessen (deli) to get something to eat/drink, bring a blanket and invite a friend or loved one to join you!
8. Visit El Zanjón de Granados in San Telmo: When it gets to be too hot and sticky, check out the El Zanjón de Granados, the underground tunnel system in San Telmo. Learn about interesting local history and stay cool. For more information check out TripAdvisor.
9. Go to Mar de Plata: Even though this isn’t in Buenos Aires it’s still worth it going there for a weekend. During the summer season, many porteños make a trip to Mar de Plata every summer to get away and relax.
10. Day Trip to Tigre: In the northern part of Buenos Aires there’s an area called Tigre known for the proximity to the river Delta. Tigre is best on a sunny day especially to take a barca (boat) ride. Other things to do here include the nature reserve, the naval museum and walking around town. Check out this website on how to plan your trip!
First thing you need to know before you come to Buenos Aires as a foreigner is the time you are permitted to stay as a tourist. Each country has their own rules and restrictions so its important to keep that in mind. For example, if you’re a citizen of the United States like me you have 90 days before you need to leave Argentina if you want to prolong your stay (Read more about reciprocity for Americans here). How do can you accomplish this? It’s easy if you take a short trip to Uruguay!
Here are a few facts and tips to help you plan your trip:
1. Uruguay is the second-smallest nation in South America, with approximately 176,000 sq kilometers (68,000 sq miles) bordering Argentina and Brazil.
2. Transportation to Uruguay: The best and quickest way to travel from Buenos Aires to Colonia or Montevideo in Uruguay is by ferry. However, there are buses that travel to both cities in Uruguay which may be more cost effective but take more time.
3. Ferries: There are two main ferry companies that take you from Buenos Aires to Uruguay: Buquebus and Colonia Express. If you want to go to Montevideo there is a direct ferry via Buquebus and Colonia Express has a ferry-bus package available, prices vary. It’s cheaper and less stressful to pay for a ferry ticket at one of their offices in Buenos Aires rather than using their websites. For more detailed information about these ferry companies check out this blog
4. Colonia: A quint, historic town that reminds you of a mini-Havanna. Colorful buildings, vintage cars, cobblestone streets are among some of the authentic features this city provides. For visitors, it’s worth at least a day-trip but not more than a few days at maximum.
5. Montevideo: The capital of Uruguay, with more than half the country’s population living there. Similar to Colonia, its recommended to stay a few days to see all the sites including the parilla (bbq) market, Plaza Independencia and at least a few of its 50 plus museums ranging in topics like gauchos, geology and maritime history.
6. Lodging: There are a number of hostels and hotels to choose from in both Colonia and Montevideo at a reasonable price. Check out TripAdvisor or one of the hostel websites for more information:
Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uruguay#Transportation
- If you like outdoor running, then BA doesn’t do badly. I have had some great moments out in the Bosques de Palermo ( nearest station plaza italia) where you can run, rollerblade and bike for miles. This is a really great part of town if you just want a moment to yourself, to absorb what you have seen, read and done so far; a momentary pause to give you back a boost of energy.
- I am a huge yoga enthusiast and when I came here, I found it hard to find a class that would suit me. It’s great for back problems or just to get you back in touch with your body if you are running around like a headless chicken trying to see and do everything at once. Your body needs a break, so if you have time, you should try ValleTierra on Plaza Armenia (the posher part of town but so great) where you can take an Iyengar yoga class and hang upside down for a while
- Back home, I make smoothies and juices in the morning but I don’t have a machine here, so I found a few affordable options to go and get one squeezed for me. The first is called The Factory and they are a chain in both Recoleta and Palermo that do super juices. The company was started by a venezuelan/ danish couple who moved to the city realising that they needed to inject a little health awareness into the porteno population. It worked and now a lot of people go. Another one I really like is called Mango Bambo in Recoleta and they are the dons of juice. You can literally ask for anything and they will juice it up, all the while chatting and talking to you in Spanish. Thees pit stops in the city are fun and I find it easy to strike up a conversation in these cosy spots.
- If you want to make your own healthy fare, I would suggest going to barrio chino in Belgrano where the shops are stocked with lots of products you perhaps can’t get elsewhere in the city. I have a soft spot for almond butter and they do a really good one there, along with fresh pak choi, coriander (usually a little tricky to find) and other delicious bites.
- A really lovely afternoon can be spent on the banks of the river in Puerto Madero and for the more adventurous, you can try the Reserva just behind Puerto Madero, where green space stretches for miles.
- It would almost be criminal not to mention the huge craze that BA has for Crossfit. If you haven’t tried it, I would recommend it only for the die hard amongst you. It is a series of circuits that, should you actually survive a class, will make you feel like an olympic champion. I tried it and nearly died but i can see that a lot of portenos swear by it, so there must be something to it.
VOLUNTARIO GLOBAL
Voluntario Global helps local communities by being available to discuss anything that local organizations need, and offering ideas for further change and development.
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Location: General Pacheco. Buenos Aires. Argentina
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