As a first blog/article attempt I thought I’d follow on from Eddy Kim’s discussion of expectations. Hopefully I can put death to any doubts some of you may have. Having been with Voluntario Global for about a week now I was really encouraged by how quickly I was brought into ‘La Casa’ to meet any ‘colleagues’ I’d be working with and the extremely friendly supervisors who are all assigned a certain amount of us volunteers. The welcome talk encourages you to embrace flexibility and become flexible yourself; this does not mean you should learn the splits or other gymnastics moves (but if you can then many congratulations!) but refers to how you may have to get used to hopping on a crowded 64 bus to La Boca at 8 in the morning with thrill-seeking, fare-evading  muchachos hanging off the doors one day... swiftly to be followed by time in the office sipping Maté and chatting in your finest Castellano.

The city of Buenos Aires itself is a mixture of rich and poor; high rise apartment blocks sit next to intricately carved institutions and you’re never far from a ‘villa’. You will find restaurants with beautiful decor and hard-working kitchens on almost every street and the bar-culture could be among the best in the world. Paying merely 20-30 pesos for a bottle of Malbec will surely bring anyone to this conclusion. On my first day off I managed to stumble through the searing yet comfortable day time heat until I saw the ‘Casa Rosada’ wonderfully lit up in the evening to really bring home why some have described the Capital Federal as a “nocturnal work of art”. Reading through past accounts of volunteers, many people talk of how privileged they feel to have their home after seeing parts of Buenos Aires. I think this works both ways; the beauty and flowing culture of such a place puts any “cosmopolitan city” to shame with the sheer ease with which you find yourself having a good time in extraordinary places.

There are easy links to the likes of Montevideo, Iguazu falls, Mendoza and even Rio de Janeiro and with enough planning it would be easy to make Buenos Aires your portal to South America. Although I am not staying in the volunteer’s house myself, I can say with confidence that anyone who is can consider themselves lucky. It is a large house with shared rooms which means you can’t help but become socially involved (the weekly ‘get togethers’ hugely aid this process). Any queries or concerns you have are only minutes (and metres) away from being answered. From tourist information to fresh laundry service, ‘La Casa’ will take care of your every need and set you up with a good base for your work and travels. It’s been said that new starts are the most exciting part of a job or of life. But I hope that you will find or have found that once arriving here, much like a high flying bird, the feeling of elation and perseverance will steadily continue throughout your journey.

 

Friday 4th November saw the official opening and discussion of Argentina´s responsible tourism week with numerous speakers including our very own Valeria Gracia. “La Defensoría del Pueblo” (http://www.defensoria.org.ar/) in San Telmo proved to be the perfect base for the Responsible Tourism conference. It is an institution that is in place to ensure tourists know their rights and are not taken advantage of while also helping locals to better understand the law and improve their lifestyles through services such as health or education.

The morning´s talks ranged from consumer rights, the relationship between tourists and the state to ethical benefits such as wealth distribution or volunteering opportunities. It was stressed that everything mentioned was applicable to tourists as well as Porteños and that responsible tourism came in many forms. If you were to take a message away it would be: “It is important to protect the patrimony of the nation you are visiting while also looking after the environment”. This sort of attitude is particularly pertinent to Latin America as the tourism market is constantly increasing so in order to preserve the monuments and spirits of the continent, we must rely on tour companies to be responsible and have the country’s interests at heart as well as their business interests. A good example of this sort of compromise came from Esteban Romano, the president of Cámara Argentina de Hostels. Working with over 170 hostels in Buenos Aires and the rest of Argentina, he aims to ensure that all are at a decent standard while promoting the need to respect each other and the country. “Hostels have a role to talk not only of tourist information (where to go, what to do), but to inform their customers about the social situations of the country they are in” Before the lunch break there was one more talk from Antonio Serra Cambaceres on the promotion and protection of consumer rights in the tourist industry. He called for businesses and government offices to make it faster and easier for anyone to reclaim expenses from unfair transactions. 

In relation to this Juan José, the executive secretary of The Responsible Tourism Network, focused his talk on the importance of transparency and how important it is for the consumer to be able to make decisions regarding consumption based on knowledge. The network has therefore agreed on 42 icons, covering topics such as energy consumption and accessibility. Each company or organization then assess to what degree they live up to in each area. These icons thus serve both as an informational instrument for the consumer, but also as an ethical instrument for the members of the network. This way, every company can join – as long as there is a vision to improve and live up to expected standards.The icons are based on an ethical code, which the members of the Network have devised themselves. The idea is that no experts can define the terms better than the people who are a part of the environment in question. Also, an expert might be affected by an issue or political pressure, which the Network considers of lesser importance. This could be marketing or outdated academia, whereas the businesses and organizations are a part of the dynamically changing world, and therefore have a better understanding of how the needs within responsible production change as well.  The next speaker was Valeria Gracia, co-founder of Voluntario Global.

Voluntario Global works in many different environments and communities, all of which are less privileged. She placed importance on supporting the volunteers professionally and emotionally. This is in order to support mutual understanding between volunteers and the community, as well as avoid culture shock. She sees the voluntourism as a cultural exchange opportunity, and as such finds the preparation very important. Focusing on the projects of the organization, she says the there are big differences on how to help. The groups, which Voluntario Global are involved with are for both children and more mature people from under-privileged families and areas. Every group needs help in a different way. One way the organization is helping a young group from areas with socio-economic difficulties is by helping them to help themselves. Voluntario Global has started a cooperative launderette which offers the young people the chance to learn responsibility, education, and work in an open community to discuss their issues. It also offers them the possibility of studying while working, and thus a better outlook for the future. The afternoon kicked off with a talk focused on accessible tourism. Everyone should have the right to enjoy the sights and activities that Buenos Aires has to offer and therefore the services industry has to consider their needs. ‘Turismo Buenos Aires’ has been working hard over the past three years to make tourism more accessible. In a country where social inclusion, equal opportunity and social integration are encouraged it is important to make accessible tourism a priority. The government, community and non-profit organization’s goal is to make the whole province of Buenos Aires accessible and thus create an inclusive environment.15% of the world’s population have a disability and the province of Buenos Aires has over a million disabled people alone. Some of the audiences’ main complaints were about the inaccessibility of the Subte and the lack of food available to celiacs in a city where medialunas, empanadas and alfajors dominate!The aim is to provide the disabled with the accessibility, safety and autonomy to enjoy the activities organized by tourist and recreation services. Some initiatives include; designing web pages for the visually impaired, carrying out campaigns to raise awareness and promote accessible tourism, establishing the conditions of accessibility to guide hotels and hostels in adapting their facilities, making these conditions known to principal museums and encouraging gastronomic establishments to consider the requirements of celiacs.For example in the Feria Internacional de Turismo Responsable, taking place tomorrow, there will be a tactile map and flyers with brail to help promote the principles of accessible tourism and they plan to take more drastic measures for next year’s fair.

The government understands that achieving accessible tourism is a difficult challenge and not one that will be accomplished immediately but it is a challenge that the province of Buenos Aires is committed to overcoming and, as with every aspect of responsible tourism, some compromises will have to be made.

 

The second talk of the afternoon was headed by the owner of the Eco-Pampa hostel, Pablo Gueilburt. The hostel was opened in Palermo in 2010 and is the first ecological hostel in Buenos Aires. They have twelve rooms and encourage their guests to respect the environment. Pablo’s aim is to minimize their impact on the environment and their principles are based on three key ecological concepts, ‘Reduce, Recycle and Reuse’. The hostel uses solar panels, doubled glazed windows, rain water, recycled paper and LED light bulbs. Additionally the entire check-in process has been digitalized to avoid wasting paper, there is a timer in each shower to make the guests aware of the amount of water they are using and they have a compost heap and an organic garden. Currently La Red de Turismo Responsable is working to encourage more hostels to adopt similar measures. Pablo is happy with what his hostel has achieved but hopes that current groundbreaking research in areas such the extraction of energy from human movement to power traffic lights and the creation of windows containing solar panels will help to facilitate the introduction of energy saving initiatives in more establishments in the future. His message is one that could be applied to all fields of responsible tourism. We must improve upon current trends and use new discoveries to find ways of including all types of people in various tourist opportunities while ensuring that all the activities are carried out for the good of the country and its society.  

Even for people who know very little about Buenos Aires, the name La Boca always seems to ring a bell. With its renowned multi-coloured houses and football stadium, ‘la Bombonera’ home to the infamous Boca juniors, it has always been a popular destination for tourists.  However, how much do people really know about this ‘barrio’? Last week we visited the Community Centre ‘Los Pibes’ in which Voluntario Global plays a large role and decided to do some research on the history, current situation and impact of the Community Centre in la Boca. History La Boca generates its name because the neighborhood sits at the mouth (“boca” in Spanish) of the Riachuelo. It lies near the old port but unfortunately the water is not deep enough for large vessels so the port did not do much to boost their economic situation. Thus the principal industries in La Boca used to be salting meat for transportation and leather tanneries. The fact that it is near a port, did however play a large part in forming La Boca’s history. In the colonial period La Boca was home to imported slaves and in the late 19th century, Italian immigrants settled in tenements.  They painted their houses with left over paint bought over by sailors which explains the characteristic multi-coloured houses now seen on ‘el Caminito’. Admittedly the colours were not always as flashy as they are today but the local painter, Quinquela Martin, urged his neighbours to use brighter colours for aesthetic effect. Additionally, the variety of immigrants all living together enriched la Boca’s culture and formed the melting pot of customs that can be seen to this day. For example the Genoese bought with them pasta, football and fashion; all of which continue to play an important role in the neighbourhood.La Boca also has a history of being a centre of radical politics. For example in 1882 the ‘barrio’ self-proclaimed itself as “Republica de la Boca” and many demonstrations were held during the crisis of 2001. This political attitude can still be seen today and is encouraged by ‘los Pibes’.

Social Problems La Boca’s most famous attraction is el Caminito, a road named after Juan de Dios Filiberto’s tango song therefore giving not only a touristic identity but also a cultural significance to this part of La Boca. On a first sight, tourists are impressed by the painted wooden houses. Adding to el Caminito, the historic team of Boca Juniors is another attraction of the neighbourhood, as it is both an attraction to foreign and Argentinean tourists, who go there to support the team. However, La Boca is not only one road (El Caminito) or one football team. Indeed, there are some views suggesting that these two attractions are an efficient way of covering up the extensive social problems of the neighbourhood. The social problems are different to other underprivileged neighbourhoods of Buenos Aires, but are more present and less exposed. As a matter of fact, when one researches anything on La Boca on the Internet the only reference to it, are the one mentioned above. Aside from the drug market, which is present all over the world, La Boca faces terrible contamination by the river Riachuelo, affecting the local population’s health.

Additionally, though unemployment has improved significantly over these past few years there is still a high rate of unemployment (around 7%) owing to the poor education system which also needs to be tackled. With the help of foreign and governmental aid, there is now a fund of $500 million to resolve the contamination problem. However, the pollution comes to la Boca via the Riachuelo which means that the slow process of cleaning the water is never-ending for the community. So far they have used $1 million of the $500 so la Boca still has it’s work cut out. Impact of ‘Los Pibes’ Community Centre What struck us most about the Community Centre was the overwhelming positive atmosphere. We were welcomed in and taken on a tour of the different aspects of the community center. The women in the small clothes factory, bakery and soup kitchen explained the nature of their work and Berta took us into the homework club where the children were being encouraged to put the Jenga game away and start their homework! Berta emphasized that after a long day at school she would rather encourage and support their work to increase their self-confidence rather than make them do it which mirrors the general heartening atmosphere in the community centre. Johan then took us to the radio where that day’s programme was just being prepared and willingly answered any questions we had. Everyone who plays a part in the community centre gets a weekly quota of food depending on the number of hours that they work and their families can use the Community’s facilities such as the computer classes, English lessons and the soup kitchen. The centre also runs monthly meetings called ‘Reunion de Jovenes’. In these meetings they discuss politics, raise awareness and mobilize interest. This has a great impact on the youth involved as the poor education system does little to motivate their interests and the meetings presents them with other opportunities.

Vountario Global provides volunteers to help in different sectors of the Community Centre such as cooking in the soup kitchen, teaching English and helping in the after school support group. It is great that our volunteers can contribute to the success of ‘Los Pibes’ which clearly makes a difference in the lives of so many. The Community Centre provides a great deal of support and though I would hesitate to say that people are reliant on it, ‘Los Pibes’ provides a great deal of support and empowers the workers to make a change in their community.

Everyone who has ever visited Argentina knows that the distinct dialect of Spanish spoken, known as Rio Platense, defines it as one of the most culturally diverse countries of Latin America. This cultural diversity found in its language stems from the vast influx of immigrants from Europe in the 20th Century. Between 1910 and 1945 the majority of these immigrants came from southern Italy and brought with them a highly particular and recognisable slang, commonly known as Lunfardo. This slang has evolved over decades; words were created as a form of code so as not to be recognized by state officials and police. It is this Lunfardo, coupled with distinct grammatical peculiarities such as the use of the vos pronoun and the different pronunciations of ‘ll’ and ‘y’ which make Argentine Spanish so unique and fascinating. Below are a few words and phrases which show this difference and their individual social context and how they are particular only to the Rio Platense dialect Quilombo – A mess, chaos – This word is only used in the Rio de la Plata region, most commonly in Argentina. Interestingly, unlike most of the Lunfardo in Buenos Aires it does not derive from southern Italy, but from Brazil. This Brazilian word was used to describe the unpleasant living conditions of slums in the country. The word has since come to describe a mess or a chaotic scene, but, by extension is also used to refer to a brothel. Chamuyero – A smooth talker – Someone who speaks about trivial and unimportant things in order to chat someone up, with a certain hint of slyness. This word often has fairly negative connotations, but its roots are not from Italy but from Argentina, and it is a word solely recognisable in this country and not in any other Spanish-speaking nation.

Continuing on this vein of words which are applicable only to Rio Platense Spanish, the following words and phrases underline further this idea of cultural identity in Argentina, as they would never be heard anywhere else but are recognisable through its slang, or Lunfardo; Salir de joda – To go out Tener (mucha) onda – To ‘be with it’, to be trendy Trucho/a – Incorrect, wrong Mina – girl Perhaps the best known of all the Argentinian slang phrases and most readily identifiable with the country is ¡Che Boludo! This phrase is highly ambiguous as it can either be offensive or actually a term of endearment toward a good friend. For example calling someone a “boludo” could mean you are referring to them as an idiot or a fool. Between close friends it is commonly used as a way of saying “hi mate” or “hi buddy”. But in a cultural sense this phrase is a fantastic example of the Argentine communication. It is quite a common belief worldwide that when Argentines speak they do so with freedom and find whatever words sound the most fluid in speech. It is this freedom of speech which makes a phrase like “Che Boludo” such a fine example of their cultural identity.  

This week has seen all the candidates finish their campaigns, but the election result is seemingly a foregone conclusion. The incumbent president, Cristina Fernandez de Kirchner already has a vast lead over any of her closest rivals. Recent polls say that the Centre-Leftist president is set to win by a landslide margin of more than 50%.   Despite her fairly controversial economic policies and fierce, combative leadership, the president looks to have taken advantage of a split opposition, seemingly unable to offer a better alternative for the Argentine people. It is evident that the lowest unemployment rate in 20 years has helped her cause immensely as the working class population has come out in their droves to support her next term in office. However, there are other notable candidates running for president against the Kirchner regime. The three most notable being ex-president Eduardo Duhalde , Ricardo Alfonsín, and Hermes Binner. But, with Hermes Binner at nearly 40 percentage points behind the president elect in second place, the result is almost already a foregone conclusion. This Sunday, Kirchner needs only a 10% lead over any of her nearest rivals when the voting public goes to the ballot box in order to be guaranteed of a second presidential term. It seems that the president is capitalising on a 20 year low in unemployment and a promise to control the spiraling rate of inflation with her state-focused economic policies which underpin her aggressive high-spend and high-growth plan. Cristina has focused much of her campaign on the lower classes where she has implemented a welfare scheme and introduced wage rises to help them cope with the ever increasing cost of living. It is this policy, coupled with a largely ineffective opposition which ultimately looks set to get her re-elected by the end of this weekend.  

By Sebastian Aristizabal (VG volunteer) Noting that I had never before seen an Argentine note when exchanging money at Heathrow Airport, I realised I knew very little about the country I was to spend four months living in. That was when I first fully took into account what a different experience Argentina was to be in comparison to any I had encountered before. I did my best to inform myself on Argentina once I had decided it was going to be where I would spend the second half of my year abroad, but even then, that was little over a month. When I arrived in Buenos Aires it was everything I had expected - a lively city with a thriving cultural scene - but what surprises me now, even after four months here, is what I am still experiencing in the city and how much I am still discovering about it. True, this can be said about all global cities like Buenos Aires, but as a Londoner this is not my first experience living in a city of this size, and there is something about this city which makes it very unique. I recently overheard a group of backpackers at a hostel saying that four days was enough time to spend in Buenos Aires. I realised however, to fully appreciate the city and embrace all it has to offer, can only really be achieved through spending a long amount of time here. The city has a great number of tourist attractions – (many of which can be seen during a short visit) - but what I now like most about this city, is the feeling of fulfilment you get from actually living here. Everyday I am overwhelmed by the amount of things there are to do in Buenos Aires. Working for Voluntario Global and Red de Turismo Responsable has also helped enrich my time here. The work I have done for the communications team has taken me to certain places allowing me to see a different side of Buenos Aires. Visiting a day-school in the impoverished villas on the outskirts of the city was a hard-hitting reminder that Buenos Aires isn’t all about fine dining and boliches. My work at the Red de Turismo Responsible taught me a great deal about what it means to be a responsible tourist. I even found myself thinking about it whilst travelling through Argentina, and enforcing responsible travel upon the friends who I was travelling with. It is not just about the environment but also about the people who are affected by the tourism industry,- including the locals. Part of responsible travel is to protect and respect the cultural heritage of the cultures which draws us to go and visit these places. Working for three months with the organization has allowed me to see many volunteers come and go. It’s interesting to see all the people who come here; people from all different walks of life and all volunteering for different purposes yet all having the common aim of wanting to work for a good cause. I feel very fortunate to of met these people. I left England with the hope that this experience would broaden my mind and teach me new things. As my time here draws to an end, I can honestly say that Argentina has defiantly met all my expectations and exceeded them. Buenos Aires now means a lot to me, and for this reason I intend to return some day. I would like to thank Voluntario Global and Red de Turismo Responsible as well as all the people I worked with and met during my stay, for making it such a wonderful experience. I finish with a quote of one of Argentina’s best writers, Jorge Luis Borges. “Siempre estaba (y estaré) en Buenos Aires”

When you mention salt flats, the first place to spring to mind tends to be Salar de Uyuni in Bolivia, the world's biggest and most well known salt flats. But on our hectic journey up north through the region of Quebrada de Humahuaca, mysef and three other volunteers from Voluntario Global decided to head to Salinas Grandes instead, the lesser mentioned but equally awe-inspiring salt flats of Argentina. Salinas Grandes are the largest salt flats in the country, covering an area of 8,290 square kilometres. A salt flat, or dry lake, is formed when all the water in it (usually freshwater) evaporates, leaving behind a dry and rough surface covered with precipitated salts. Over 10 million years old, Salinas Grandes is a salt desert in the Cordoba and Santiago del Esero provinces of the Sierras de Cordoba. Even the drive there was spectacular.  

Zig zagging your way up through the mountains, the remis driver that we hired from Pumamarca pulled over for plenty of photo opportunities (whilst handing out generous amounts of coca leaves for altitude sickness).  Here at Salinas Grandes, salt is mined from neatly cut rectangular pools of turquoise water in the ground.  Salt artisans set up their stalls in the flats' “main square”, selling handmade llamas, houses and cacti all carved from salt. So, what exactly does one do with a blank canvas of sweeping white expanse and an overarching banner of blue sky? You start taking photos of course  Then you think, what else can we do?  Then you get the driver to take photos of you  If you have the chance to, I´d definitely recommend making your way up to Salinas Grandes for a day of spectacular scenery, incredible moments and shameless mugging for the cameras. You won't regret it!

♪ “Listen, do you want to know a secret”? ♪ The first Latin American Beatles museum opened this past January in Paseo La Plaza located on Corrientes Avenue! It is part of a complex dedicated to the Beatles and it is composed of the Star Café, the Cavern Club, the Cavern Pub, Sala John Lennon and the museum. There are many performances regularly at the club, pub and Sala that includes a wide variety of Beatles tribute bands. A private collector named Rodolfo Vazquez holds the World Guinness Record for having the largest collection of Beatles memorabilia opened the museum. Rodolfo began collecting at the age of ten after hearing the Beatles for the first time. Since then, his collection has grown to 8,500 pieces that range from birth certificates, original records, 8-tracks, a wide variety of merchandise like a Liverpool Monopoly game, the Beatles board game, watches, beanie babies, figurines, signed checks and even replicas of the costumes worn by the Fab Four.

The Beatles never played in Argentina but Mr. Vazquez has now made Buenos Aires part of Beatles history as his museum is one of three in the world of its kind. The other two Beatles museums are located in Liverpool, England and Hamburg, Germany.   If you are planning on visiting the museum I suggest stopping at the Star Café after and indulging in a café con leche y tres medialunas as you enjoy the selection of Beatles songs played on the radio. If you really want a treat, you can buy tickets of about 40 pesos to see one of the Beatles tribute bands that play regularly at the Cavern Pub and the Cavern Club. I attended one of the performances of the 4!Beatleband in the Cavern Pub. The pub is a smaller venue that seats about 40-50 in front of the band that lends itself to provide a more intimate setting for the concertgoers. This band primarily sings some of the first Beatles hits and lesser-known solos. The members of 4! share some of the history of each song as well as general Beatles trivia. This is a great show for those that would like to learn about how the band got together. The band stays true to the time period with clothing that is reminiscent of the late 1950s when Paul met John and they played in the band called The Quarrymen. One of the band members, Hernan, even looks like a young Paul McCartney down to the facial expressions as he sings. If 4!Beatleband are not playing that night, it is worth checking out the other bands who are just as good. Rodolfo also hosts an annual ‘Beatle Week’ and bands compete to win a trip to Liverpool. The next one is scheduled to begin on the 29th of November. You can look up dates to events on their website www.thecavern.com.ar

We went in a big group, everyone from the VG house, and a couple of people also working for Voluntario Global, but living elsewhere. Everyone seems to be looking forward. It is getting dark as we arrive. We enter the hall, greet whoever is sitting there, and hurry[gallery link="file" order="DESC" columns="2" orderby="ID"] upstairs, where the action is taking place. We are going to a photo exhibition, where the artists are children and the inspiration their own home

– La Boca neighbourhood. As we enter the room, there is a feeling of anticipation. Children are running everywhere, not considering the seriousness of being an artist. We are introduced to the exhibition by little pieces of text explaining the process of the work in the words of the children, and showing a slightly more thoughtful side to them than the noisy and playful one we are experiencing, as they run around the room. The texts explain in simple words how the children came to find the subject of their photos, the specific perspectives and angles. They invite you to understand the way they have worked with the cameras, what their wonders were and how they came to understand the potential their own neighbourhood holds. We are also shown little interviews with the children on the subject of La Boca – why is it called La Boca, what does it smell of – these thoughts deepens our understanding ofwho they are and their approach to the work, and even thoughthere are no photos of the children themselves, reading what has been captured of their thoughts, leaves an impression of who they are, and what their work has been inspired by, maybe even a hint of their own discovery of their feelings towards their neighbourhood. Feelings they may not have been aware of in everyday life.This all adds to our anticipation, and we are excited to move on the main attraction of the evening – the photos. The photos displayed at the exhibition depicted many diverse aspects of life in La Boca neighbourhood. The viewer saw a detailed insight into the culture of one of Buenos Aires oldest districts with representations of the infamous dockyard, the Lezama park, animals, mural paintings and, of course, images relating to Boca Juniors football club. The Bombonera stadium and legend Diego Maradona were what most of the children associated with one of Buenos Aires most famous teams.

The children in the Los Pibes community center produced some highly professional and creative photos that brilliantly capture the culture that surrounds one of the most historic districts in the Argentine capital. Having looked around the whole exhibition we spoke with Ramiro, a young boy with a great passion for football, Boca Juniors and Diego Maradona. This passion was evident through the fact that he had one of the largest displays at the exhibition. A large proportion of his photos featured murals in streets very near the community center. These old paintings portray images of Maradona, sketches of La Bombonera and the general footballing culture which clearly plays a central role in this neighbourhood. Speaking to him, we learnt just how much football has meant to him and through his photography this was further underlined. When asked who his current favourite player is, he said it is still Maradona! We then spoke with Rosario, a young girl who showed a great interest in many photos at the exhibition. Although she hadn't taken any photos, it was fantastic to see her so involved and she especially took a liking to the display of the cats and dogs in La Boca.

There is a great picture of her with her favourite dog! (insert photo) Rounding the evening off, the children gathered to do a small presentation for everyone who showed up.Parents, grandparents, all watching and listening. Each of the children read a few words, talking quickly, some of them looking shy or self-conscious, all of them looking proud. The coordinator then took over, thanking the community centre Los Pibes, for funding the work, providing the children with the possibility of learning, and for developing an interest in creating something, and for giving them an opportunity to try something different than what they usually do. It has influenced their perception of their home and opened their eyes to the diversities of the neighbourhood. But it has also influenced their perception of their own abilities, opening their eyes to what is possible and to the fact that they are able to achieve something. For some of them, this feeling might follow them into the future, enabling them to dream, and maybe, eventually reach for that dream.

Part of living and working in Buenos Aires as a communications volunteer at Voluntario Global means spending a lot of time researching this city. It’s a hard life, I know! But being a gringo in addition to not being able to speak fluent Spanish  does have its difficult moments. For example, being unable to ask a local, or porteño about their favourite places to eat at around town, or having to always rely on Frommers or Lonely Planet to show you which way to the buffet? Enter the Internet, and more specifically, food blogs. Thanks to these passionate, enthusiastic foodies who love nothing more than picking up a camera and documenting good meals around BsAs, I can eat like a porteño in-the-know. In a city renowned for its love of feasting and festivity every night of the week, the food blogs in Buenos Aires also host a blog-roll treasure trove of information on lifestyle and happenings around town. And they are fantastic for hunting down the more elusive of cuisines or dining trends, such as organic, vegetarian or closed door restaurants*. *Closed door restaurants are underground dinner parties usually hosted at someone’s house. Otherwise known as supper clubs, these are often illegal due to the bypassing of licensing laws and food regulation authorities. Buenos Aires has a thriving closed door restaurant scene but shh, you didn’t hear it from me. Here are three of my favourite Buenos Aires food blogs in inglés so far:

  1. Pick up the Fork – A witty food blog by a Buenos Aires expat who also explores the quirky eccentricities of Argentinian lifestyle and habits in her blog, ¿Qué Sé Yo, Argentina?
  2. The Lost Asian – An immaculately designed blog with beautiful pictures and well-written reviews. An absolute pleasure to read.
  3. In Spirits – Drink takes centre stage in this blog highlighting some of the most unique and alcohol-friendly experiences around town

Special mentions Landing Pad BA – A colloquial and useful online resource on lifestyle, events, tips and places to go in Buenos Aires and Argentina. Time out Buenos Aires iPhone app - Nifty and slick location-based app which shows you the best places in eating, shopping, nightlife and sightseeing, wherever you might be in BsAs.